UNIQLO's hijab got criticised from both sides. Keep doing what has positive expectation
Originally written in Chinese. Translated with AI, reviewed by Gary. Read the Chinese original →
Something rather interesting, and a little controversial, happened with UNIQLO in Malaysia recently.
They launched a new hijab collection. Once the ads came out, some Muslims in Malaysia felt the way the models wore it exposed the neck and didn't fully cover the aurat, so it didn't match their understanding of a hijab. Some even said that worn like that, it should be called a headscarf or a turban, not a hijab.
I assumed it would just be argued about here in Malaysia and blow over. Then today I saw that once the photos made their way back to Japan, it started brewing on Japanese X too.
Some Japanese users saw UNIQLO making hijabs and linked it to Tadashi Yanai's past remarks about Japan's shrinking population and its need for more foreign talent. It ended up with some people calling UNIQLO an "anti-Japanese company", and even calls for a boycott.
Which makes for a funny situation.
In Malaysia, some say you're "not Muslim enough". Back in Japan, some say you're "too Muslim".
Criticised from both sides. 😂
More than a decade of learning in Malaysia
But looking at it from a business angle, I actually think UNIQLO is well worth studying here.
Many people may not know that UNIQLO's learning about Muslim fashion didn't start today because it suddenly noticed a big market.
UNIQLO entered Malaysia in 2010. My sister worked at UNIQLO around 2011 and 2012, and back then I heard bits and pieces about how they approached localisation.
It wasn't about taking what sold well in Japan, moving it to Malaysia unchanged, translating it into Malay and calling that localisation.
They tried to understand how people here live, what the weather is like, how consumers dress, and what different religions and cultures require of clothing.
In 2015, UNIQLO worked with Hana Tajima to launch modest wear. Malaysia, Indonesia, Singapore and Thailand were among the first markets, and Yuna was brought in for the campaign. Only later did the line expand to the Middle East, Europe and the US.
In a way, Malaysia has always been an important market for UNIQLO to learn about Muslim consumers.
We often think the Malaysian market is small, but from a global brand's perspective, it's actually a very special place.
Malays, Chinese and Indians, different religions and cultures, living together. And our Muslim fashion market is already very mature. Consumers here don't just buy "anything that covers up". They have their own standards for cut, colour, comfort, styling, occasion, even how the fabric should fall.
Add to that Malaysia's hot, humid weather all year round, and breathability, light fabrics and UV protection matter a lot.
More than ten years later, in 2026, UNIQLO launched its first standalone hijab collection, chose Malaysia as one of its most important markets, and didn't just make any headscarf. It brought in what it does best: AIRism, UV protection and functional textiles.
You can't score 100 every time
Of course, this campaign still touched some cultural sensitivities and stirred up all sorts of messy controversy.
But I think that's quite normal.
A global company this big, entering markets with different countries, religions and cultures, can't possibly get 100 marks on every attempt.
Some things are done very well, some may fall short, some campaigns need adjusting, some messaging needs to be relearned.
What I prefer to look at is the positive expectation behind it.
The Muslim consumer market is real, demand for modest fashion is real, and there's a genuine fit between UNIQLO's functional clothing capability and this market.
If the direction has positive expectation, it's worth trying.
And more interestingly, even though people on both sides are complaining on social media, the actual market response so far is that the products are selling well. Some styles sold out quickly.
Customers gave their feedback with real money.
Sometimes when you see lots of controversy online, it makes you wonder whether the thing was a mistake.
But business isn't about whether people complain. It's about whether the thing has long-term value, real demand, and room worth continuing to learn and improve.
I actually admire UNIQLO for this.
A global company that's already this big still keeps entering new markets, understanding new cultures, developing new products, and trying again.
It won't be perfect every time.
But as long as something has positive expectation, keep doing it, keep learning, keep adjusting.
Honestly, that's probably what business is.